Grate the cheese. Measure all ingredients and have them ready to add with one hand. Your other hand will be busy stirring the mixture with a wooden spoon.

Rub a heavy saucepan with the garlic. Heat the wine in the saucepan, uncovered, over a moderately high heat. Pour kirsch into a cup. Add the corn starch and stir until well dissolved.

When the wine is to the point where it is almost covered with a fine foam, but not yet boiling, start adding the cheese gradually, stirring constantly. Keep the heat fairly high, but do not let the fondue boil. Continue to add the cheese until it begins to thicken a bit and you can feel a very slight resistance to the spoon as you stir, about 10 minutes from the time you begin to add the cheese.

Still stirring constantly, add the kirsch and corn starch mixture. Continue to cook until the fondue begins to thicken. Add nutmeg, white pepper or paprika to taste.

Transfer the fondue to a heat proof heavy pan which can be placed over an alcohol lamp or use a chafing dish or electric skillet, adjusted to low heat to keep it warm and melted.